Monday 16 February 2009

Online Poker Cash Strategy

If, like me, you’re a fan of the 1966 classic ‘A Big Hand for the Little Lady’ (released in the UK as ‘Big Deal at Dodge City’), you may remember a key five-card draw hand in which Henry Fonda’s character suffers a heart attack. Against the wishes of his opponents, his wife takes over the hand. But, the little lady has a big problem: she doesn’t know how to play poker.

More importantly in relation to this article, she doesn’t have enough money on the table to cover a large bet made by an opponent. So, she removes her cards and walks across the street to the bank where she reveals her five-card draw holding to the pennypinching bank owner. After being assured he is not part of a joke, he advances her a mountain of cash and play resumes at the saloon.

I suppose in the 1800s, when players ran out of chips and cash during a hand, under ‘western rules’ they could take out a bank loan or sign a deed to their property. But today, we play table stakes in the 21st century and the maximum a player can bet, call or raise during a hand is the money he or she has on the table at the beginning of that hand. Hence the expression and those words that burn ears at the table: ‘all-in’.

The ‘all-in’ move may be an integral part of today’s no limit hold’em game, but its correct usage is not always employed and even less often discussed. To this end, I turned to an experience no-limit cash game player, Alphonse Mekalainas, for advice.

His initial thought was to tell me: ‘Lee, in a nutshell, going all-in while playing no-limit hold’em has an intimidating effect. Once you execute this play, no one can get you off your hand. In cash games, most all-in plays occur on the turn or river. Let’s say the pot is at 0, the board after the turn is K-9-7-2 with two diamonds and I hold A-K in middle position. An early position player has been betting since pre-flop. He now bets 5. If I have 0 remaining and he has me outchipped, I should fold if I believe I am beaten or move all-in if I think my hand is the best. There is no reason to just call the 5 bet. Losing players call too much.’

Minimum buy-in

Mekalainas goes on to explain how his all-in plays differ when there is a minimum buy-in: ‘On occasion, I like to play the / no-limit hold’em game at the Wynn in Las Vegas. The minimum buy-in is 0. The maximum is whatever you can put down on the table. My initial buy-in is typically 0. When I sit down, I am often up against several stacks in excess of ,000. The minimum most players buy in for is ,000.

‘Cards like A-K and A-Q are key hands in no-limit. When I pick these big cards up, what I am looking for pre-flop is for someone to raise to or so. Hopefully, there will be one caller (although getting a lone caller is not mandatory to execute this play). I will then go all-in. I’m hoping for a coin toss situation, one where my opponent might blink and fold. By going all-in, I am giving my opponent the opportunity to make a mistake such as folding a medium pocket pair where he is a small favourite and he is getting favourable pot odds. For example, black pocket 9s are a 55-45 favourite over a black A-Q offsuit.

‘In addition, making this play adds deception to my game. Since I play with the same players frequently, they realise I might make the same play with pocket Kings or pocket Aces. But knowing I will make this play with just two high cards, they will often call me with 10-10 or J-J.

‘In spots where I have either been the opening raiser or even a caller, I often move in on the flop. All I need is a decent hand such as a pair with a flush draw. This follows my overall objective of putting pressure on my opponents. When I have a single opponent, I almost always want him to fold. Once he folds, nothing bad can happen. If he decides to call, I have outs. I try to avoid going all-in without having a way out.’

Maximum buy-in

Mekalainas is also a fan of the / no-limit hold’em game at the Bellagio and reveals that his play is markedly different because there is a set, maximum amount you are allowed to start with: ,000.

‘I buy in for the maximum,’ he adds. ‘And at least initially, I play in a more straightforward fashion. I’m looking to trap an opponent and build up my stack. I almost never go all-in unless I hold a strong hand and I believe my opponent is committed to all his chips based on the pot size and his remaining chips. If I am fortunate enough to build my stack to approximately ,000, then my strategy changes. Bill Gates can sit down and I will have him ‘stack dominated.’ Remember, even a billionaire can only buy in for ,000 in this game.

‘A beneficial by-product of bullying with a large stack is that you confuse your less than observant opponents who have decided that you play a certain way. They haven’t factored in that your strategy has changed as your chip stack has increased. Getting back to Gates, I can now push him around. One method is to over-bet my mediocre hands (at hopefully the right times). You need not go all-in to move your opponents out. By making an oversized bet while sitting behind a dominant stack, there is always the chance you will scare an opponent off his hand.

‘But, there is an obvious scenario where only going allin will have the desired effect. Let’s say I have 10-10 under the gun. I’ll make it to go playing / nolimit. Three players call, and then the short-stacked, small blind player goes all-in for 0. When that happens, I will come over the top and move all-in for 0 or 0. What I am trying to do is isolate my pocket pair against the small blind (it is unlikely he or she holds a premium hand) and take advantage of the existing pot odds. In addition, I am trying to drive out weak Ace and King hands to ameliorate the effect of an overcard(s) on the flop. This play works well for me.’

Know your limit

Having explored how the size of the buy-in affects whether or not you go all-in, I asked Mekalainas what bearing the skill level at different buy-ins has on when you decide to push. Here’s what he had to say:

‘In a / blind game, the players are more capable of releasing hands like top pair/top kicker. Typically, the higher the limit, the stronger the competition. At lower limits, opponents are more likely to go all-in risking ,000 to win a 0 pot where a 0 bet would most likely accomplish the same result. Don’t bet more than you have to. There is no advantage to putting extra money at risk when a smaller bet will have the same effect on an opponent.

‘Here’s a play that may not work on a sophisticated player, but I have had success at limits up to /. Let’s say I have ,000 in front of me and my opponent has 0. I might bet 0 on the river if I want him to call. In contrast, I might push all-in if I’m unsure my hand is better than his. While the bet is essentially the same – putting all my opponents’ chips at risk – the subtle, psychological difference has worked to my advantage.

‘Remember that the smaller stack is always at risk of being put all-in by his opponent. That is why it is so important for the short-stack to put all his chips into the pot first. Let the other guy feel the pressure and make the mistake. If you are not giving your opponents enough chances to make mistakes, then you are not playing as well as you could be.

Sit & Go Strategy

Sit 'n Go Strategy and Tips


Sit and Go tourneys are fast-paced and fun to play in. It’s like playing in a microcosm of a big multi-table tournament. The structure of SnG’s is usually that of a one-table freezeout and the top 2 or 3 places pay out. Since you’re going to be starting out with at least 9 or 10 players at your table, it makes sense to play pretty tight in the early stages of these tournaments. The logic is simple: many of your opponents will be wild and tend to gamble early on. For whatever reason, these folks just don’t feel comfortable unless they get a quick double-up under their belt. This puts you in a great situation if you’re holding a monster hand preflop like pocket Aces or Kings, but you generally want to stay out of the action early on. You get rewarded for just surviving, so let others get knocked out before you take your shots. If there’s enough gamble in your opponents early on, you might not even need to win many pots to get into the money.

Early Rounds

Look at the risk/reward ratio for another reason to play more conservative early on. The blinds start off pretty low in these tourneys, so what do you have to gain by bluffing, or even playing a mediocre hand at all? You’re not going to be picking up much if you win the pot, and you might get raised to the point where you’re paying much more than you’d like to. Especially in early position, I wouldn’t play anything worse than A-Q suited or a pair of Queens. Wait until your table is a few opponents short and the blinds are higher, as you’ll have more to gain by your aggressive play.

Especially at tighter sites, an SnG is a great place for the continuation bet. A continuation bet is making a bet after the flop after you’ve raised the hand preflop. You’ve taken control of the hand, preferably with position, by raising before the flop, so your opponents will usually check to you. At this point, you make a bet anywhere between half the size of the pot and the full size of the pot. Since you raised preflop, your opponents will tend to put you on a big hand, possibly a big pocket pair. When the board comes out with 3 rags, or your opponents only got a piece of the flop, and they’re facing another bet from the preflop raiser, they’ll usually throw their hand away.

For example, let’s you raised 4x the big blind from late position with A-K and 3 callers stay in. When the flop comes out 9-2-5, regardless of the suits, you’re going to bet at least half the pot when your opponents check to you. If one of your opponent calls your bet on the flop, he obviously has something to stay in the hand, even if it’s only a draw. If he checks to you again on the turn and you don’t hit your Ace or King, you’ll have to check behind him. Also, be aware that many opponents like to slowplay or check-raise the preflop raiser. They know that you’re likely to bet or raise again on the flop, so they’ll often wait until you bet and raise you. If you get raised and you didn’t hit the flop in some way, you should just release your hand.

Middle Rounds

As the blinds begin to increase further into the tournament, you’ll need to open up your play a bit. Firstly, you’ll want to start looking for tighter players to steal the blinds from. As the tournament progresses and the blinds become a larger percentage of everyone’s stack, play at the table will generally tighten up. You’ll often find yourself in late position without any players yet to enter the pot. If you have a decent holding (two face cards, an Ace, or any pocket pair), you should consider raising to gain control of the hand and possibly win the blinds preflop. This play works best against tight or timid opponents, who will usually fold unless they have a premium hand. If this type of player calls your raise or reraises you, you should proceed with caution. They’re inherently tight players, so a call or raise means that they’re holding a strong hand. Facing a reraise, I will often throw my hand away. You can still attempt to steal the blinds from aggressive opponents, but tend to have a stronger hand to raise with than you would against tighter opponents in case you get called or reraised. Unless you’re holding an overpair to the board, I don’t recommend a continuation bet against an aggressive. This type of online player will often call you down with middle or bottom pair, and if you can’t beat that you shouldn’t bet.

You’ll also want to loosen up your starting hand requirements. Usually by the time the blinds reach levels of 100-200 or 150-300 or greater, at least a couple or more of your opponents have been knocked out. Since there are less players at the table, the sizeable blinds will hit you more often. While I recommend a tight-aggressive style of play early in the tournament, you simply won’t be able to wait for premium cards with the blinds so large. Even if you’ve managed to increase your chip stack significantly by this point in the tournament, the blinds will still affect you. As I mentioned earlier, your opponents will generally play tighter at this point in the tournament, so playing an aggressive game can be advantageous. Look for opportunities to raise hands like suited connectors or any two face cards from late position. Even if you get called by one or both of the blinds, you’ll be able to analyze the texture of the flop and act last on every future betting round. Position is extremely important in hold ‘em, and anytime you have position in a hand, you have a major advantage.

Heads-Up

So, you’ve followed my advice, played a great tournament, and you’ve managed to make it down to the final two. Good job! What’s next? When you get down to head-up play, you’re either going to be acting or reacting on every hand. There won’t be a pot that you won’t be involved in, and you’ll have to be prepared for fast action. You opened up your play as the blinds increased, and you’ll need to open up your play even further when you’re playing heads-up. Most often, the action will take place before the flop. The small blind gets to make the first move preflop, so if you have any semblance of a hand you should raise and try to take the big blind. If your opponent is timid, you should definitely run over him as often as possible.

The odds are that your opponent doesn’t have a hand, so it will be difficult for him to call without the cards to warrant it, especially being out of position on future betting rounds. Of course, your opponent probably deduces the same logic about your hand, so you can’t allow him to run over you, either. Don’t be afraid to go all-in with any pocket pair, any Ace or King, or even suited connectors. You’ll be putting a lot of pressure on your opponent, and you’ll often pick up the pot with this move. If you do get called, hopefully you have your opponent beaten. If you were aggressive and made a move but got beaten, don’t beat yourself up. Finishing in second is very respectable, you’ll win some money, and it means that you played a great tournament.

Sit ‘n Gos allow for fast action and good practice for multi-tournament play without the investment of hours of your time. Remember to start off playing a tight game, as many opponents will play recklessly early on, and you aren’t highly rewarded for taking chances on borderline calls early on. Try to play a solid game early on, and as the blinds increase you should begin to open up your game by occasionally stealing blinds and raising with more hands from late position. If you make it to the final table, be the aggressor as much as possible and don’t hesitate to go all-in often with pairs and at least one face card. Sit ‘n Gos are becoming more and more popular for their fast tournament style, and many online players profit from playing these games exclusively. By following our advice and, most importantly, putting it in practice, you can reach the point where you are making money in 7 or 8 out of 10 tournaments – a very healthy alternative to consistent cash game wins

The Basics of Poker

    Poker Basics

    Most poker games use a standard 52-card deck of playing cards. There is no national or international regulating organization for the game of poker; the rules are simply passed down through tradition and experience. Knowing the standard poker rules gives you a good foundation, but there are dozens of house rules that may be in effect, depending on where you play. If you play on Friday nights at your cousin's house, your cousin decides the house rules. If you're playing in a major tournament at a casino, the casino's rules apply. Make sure you know the house rules where you plan to play, and don't be afraid to ask -- before you buy-in. Although the days of poker players getting shot over a big pot are for the most part behind us, it's still a bad idea to violate a house rule at the table.

    In most poker games, money is traded in for chips before the game begins. The chips are what the players are actually putting into the pot. At the end of the game, they can trade their chips for money ("cashing out").

    In this article, whenever a dollar amount is mentioned in relation to a hand of poker, we're actually talking about chips that represent that amount.

    Poker GlossaryAnte - Ante is a bet placed by all players before a hand is dealt. It is the "cost" of being able to play in that hand
  • (hand - see below)

  • Bet - To bet is to put money into the pot. (pot - see below)

  • Blind - Sometimes used instead of an ante, this is a bet placed by the player sitting to the left of the dealer before the hand is dealt.

  • Bluff - Bluffing is when a player bets aggressively even though he has a weak hand, in an attempt to get the other players to fold. (fold - see below)

  • Bug - A bug is a joker, used in some games as a wild card; sometimes it is a limited wild card, in which case the joker acts as an ace. If the joker is the fifth card needed to complete a flush or a straight, it becomes whichever card is needed. (wild card - see below)

  • Buy-in - The buy-in is the amount of money needed to enter a poker game.

  • Call - To call is to place into the pot the amount needed to match the previous bets made for that betting round.

      For example, if the player to your right bets $10, to stay in that hand you need to "call" his bet by placing $10 in the pot.
  • Check - A check is a bet of nothing. If no bets have been made during the current betting round, the player whose turn it is to bet can bet nothing, and pass the opportunity to bet to the player to her left. If everyone checks all the way around the table, the betting round ends.

  • Fold - To fold is to drop out of the hand because you don't think your cards are good enough to win. When you fold, you don't put any more money into the pot, and you forfeit any chance at winning it. (pot - see below)

  • Hand - A hand is a combination of cards, usually five, that is compared to the other players' hands to see who wins. The word hand is also used to mean a single round of poker.

  • Pot - The pot is the prize for a hand of poker. The pot is made up of the antes or blinds, plus all the bets made during that hand. At the end of the hand, the player with the best hand (or the last player still in the hand, if everyone else folds) wins the pot.

  • Raise - To raise is to increase the amount of the bet for the current betting round, after another player has already placed a bet.

      For example, the player to your right bets $10. You can call her $10 bet, and then raise it another $10. You would therefore place $20 into the pot. Players to your left would have to call the total bet of $20 to stay in the hand. They could also raise it another $10. In this case, when the bet came around to you again, you'd have to put $10 in the pot to call and stay in the hand.

  • Showdown - The showdown is the end of the hand, when all remaining players show their cards to see who has the best hand.

  • Wild card - A wild card is card whose value is decided by the player holding it.

Rank of Hands

Poker hands are ranked based on the odds against drawing them. The rarer a hand, the stronger it is.

Some poker variants use alternate hands, but the rank of hands shown below (and at right) is standard. Hands that are tied in terms of rank are decided based on the highest card in the hand. In other words, a Pair of Kings beats a Pair of Tens, and a Straight 7-8-9-10-J beats a Straight 3-4-5-6-7.

The lowest possible hand is no hand at all -- no pairs, no Straight, nothing. This kind of hand is known by the highest card it contains, so K-7-5-3-2 of different suits would be "King High."


This hand has nothing. If the player were to take this hand all the way to the showdown without folding, the hand would be called "King High."

The lowest actual hand is One Pair, made of two cards of the same value and three unrelated cards.


One Pair

Next is Two Pair: two cards of the same value, another two other cards of the same value, and one unrelated card.


If two players have Two Pair, the rank of the highest pair in each hand is the tie-breaker. If that pair is tied, the low pairs are compared. If the hands are still tied, the unmatched card in each hand is compared; high card wins. In the event of completely tied hands, the pot is split.

Three of a Kind beats Two Pair: three cards with the same value and two unrelated cards. This hand is sometimes referred to as a Set or Trips.


Three Eights, also know as a "Set of Eights" or "Trip-eights"

Topping Three of a Kind is a Straight, made of five cards, any suit, in uninterrupted order of value. An Ace can be either the low card or the high card in a Straight, but you can't build a Straight between a King and a Two. In other words, A-2-3-4-5 is a Straight, and so is 10-J-Q-K-A, but Q-K-A-2-3 is not.


5-6-7-8-9 Straight

Just above the Straight is the Flush: five cards of the same suit, with any value.


Flush

Next is the Full House. A Full House is basically three of a kind plus a pair. A Full House made of three Queens and a pair of Sixes would be referred to as "Full-house, Queens over Sixes."


Full House, Queens over Sixes

Four of a kind is a rare hand without wild cards in play. This hand consists of four cards of the same value, plus one unrelated card.


Four of a Kind

The strongest hand in poker is the Straight Flush, which is really a combination of a Straight and a Flush. This hand is made up of five cards of the same suit, in uninterrupted sequence.


Straight Flush

    The legendary Royal Flush is the rarest of all poker hands. Technically, it's just a Straight Flush with an Ace as the high card, but because it's an unbeatable hand, poker players usually consider the Royal Flush a hand in its own category. Specifically, a Royal Flush is five cards of the same suit in an uninterrupted sequence that leads up to the Ace: 10-J-Q-K-A.


The elusive Royal Flush, the strongest hand in poker